the Big Bean


MY TRIP TO…

WAS

A city with such a high pace needs coffee to keep it going – and a lot of it. Luckily, several of those fuel stops serve some really high-octane stuff from around the country. And to mend all those over-caffeneited dwellers the city offers very decent spots to tank in some delicious calories and wash them down with crafty beers.

Before the trip I promised myself two things. First – I will drink more really good coffee in one week than ever before. Secondly, I’ll enjoy more gourmet burgers than, well, ever before. I succedeed in both and therefore it must have been a good trip.

The North-East Regional Barista Competition took place in New York City right in the beginning of my trip. On Saturday night there was a huge Latte Art Throwdown with 48 participants. For the winner there was a decent prize – a trip to Brazil. NYC coffee scene meets M&M’s. I particulary like the Grumpy ones.

Somebody knows brewers with good biceps.

I did my homework and compiled myself a map with all the coffee places marked on it – seven pages with around 20 spots to sample New York’s coffee scene.

One of my favourite spots in the Big Bean was Stumptown’s roastery and brew bar in the old Red Hook harbour area in Brooklyn. No fussying about espresso and very few people meant that there was a lot of time to chat with the baristas and sample the somewhat comprehensive coffee menu. The roastery was beautiful, the wooden floor really emphasised the feeling of craftmanship. Red Hook is so called “up-and-coming” area, not yet completely populated with hipsters but in a few years time it probably will be. I think it’s worth a visit anyway.

The popularity of Chemex in the States still amazes me. I have never had a cup I still could recall. Cleanliness is a nice thing but I don’t really like the way it kind of strips everything else from the coffee. Nevertheless, this Burundi was completely enjoyable.

Inconsistency seems to be a problem even in New York. I had very high expectations for some shops as I had heard only positive things talked about them. Unfortunatelly when you have high expectations it is very difficult to beat them. Amazing shops that serve supposedly beautiful and delicious coffee but the barista fails to deliver up to the expectations. I know that each and every barista has a bad day time to time and it is therefore unfair to judge the establishment based on a single coffee served by a certain barista. But it’s that one time that counts. Why would I return to give them another try and prepare for disappointment? A “normal” customer probably wouldn’t.

It may be that I just don’t really understand the style of brewing coffee in the States1. Some of the espressos were just undrinkable – salty, burnt, tar and lack of sweetness. If that’s the way you want your espressos to be brewed then fine. I get it as long as it’s justified (huge mouthfeel) but don’t expect me to be back, I can eat salty liquorice candies at home, too.

Luckily I managed to find a coffee bar serving espressos more to my taste – lots of sweetness, clarity and bright acidity but lesser body. RBC in TriBeCa was in my opinion the best coffee experience in New York. I ended up going the four times. What I really made me go back there several times was the fact that RBC is pretty much the only coffee place in NYC to serve coffee from different roasteries – some variety in a scene dominated by the two big ones, Intelli and Stumptown.

The baristas pulled some incredibly tasty shots with the aid of NYC’s only Slayer. The Über Boiler + V60 -combo worked did the trick too, I loved tasting all the different offeringsthey had from both coasts and even from in between. We had some great discussions and every time I left well-caffeineted. They were also interested in getting some coffee from Finland, all New Yorkes stay tuned…

Ninth Street Espresso in Chelsea food market. Where’s the orange?

Cafe Grumpy in Park Slope. They brew all their filter coffee in Coava Kones and do it well.

In general I think that the level and amount of great, freshly roasted coffee in NYC is very good. I haven’t been to any other city where there are more coffee spots than I can go through. The plethora of roasteries makes is very interesting – I counted that I tasted coffee from around 15 different roasteries. Trying some beans through different roasters is very exciting. Based on my observation in the barista party the coffee community is fairly strong although one thing surprised me. Almost none of the baristas I spoke to had visited all the shops I had on my map, many had only been to the ones in their local area. How can you aspire to serve great coffee if you don’t have general understanding and knowledge of the coffee scene?

Bluebird Coffee Shop

Oh yes, the burgers! There’s something utterly satisfying when it comes to burgers. Maybe it’s about what I most love in food – simplicity and the very best ingredients. That’s the recipe for a perfect burger and I recon that The Spotted Pig, a Michellin-starred gastro pub, did best job. In general eating out is a breeze compared to other cities. There’s no need for an hour-long search to find a decent establishment for dinner. If you’d like you can spend a lot or very little money and still eat very well.

Pork trotter at Northern Spy. The best dish I’ve had in ages. Incredibly delicious and satisfying.

Don’t settle for any less. The almost-legendary Mast Brothers chocolate.

Alchemy at South Side Coffee.

Lever machine for single origin espressos at Blue Bottle Coffee in Williamsburg. I just couldn’t comprehend why would somebody roast an Ethiopian coffee so that it tastes like an Indonesian…

  1. This is especially true with espresso []
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Scoresheets, pt. 2

So. I came fourth. I wasn’t really how I performed with the coffee (there was nothing wrong with the coffee itself – the winner used the same!) but I had lots of fun competing. I know that preparing for competition is a great opportunity to learn1 but I never imagined to learn so much. Huge congratulations to Lauri for winning. He works also at Kaffa and it will be very interesting to prepare him for the WBC. You can follow his blog training blog here.

Here are my scoresheets from the finals. One technical got missing but there wasn’t anything especially interesting in it. Some comments are in English, others in Finnish. I hope someone can learn at least something by reading them. There are lots and lots of silly small mistakes and failures that cost my a lot of points. I’m not going to analyse them here as I don’t think it’s any help for anyone. All the low scores I got I totally deserved, especially the signature. I had an ice cream that was a little too stiff and cold in the finals and didn’t mix into the drink. I think the judges were really good and did good job finding the one who did least mistakes.

  1. Or what it should be all about, actually. []
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Semifinals and mistakes

I made it to the national finals in the Finnish Barista Cup. To be honest I wasn’t really surprised – quite the opposite actually. When you have 10 competitors in the semifinals and six of them are going through to the finals a somewhat okay routine and decent espresso (I used Nekisse from Ethiopia) should secure you a place on the next round. It did, luckily. Otherwise I wouldn’t be there – and that of course wasn’t how I thought it would be.

I take this competition very seriously. Maybe more seriously than anyone else, who knows. Anyway, that’s something I thought would take me to the top – there’s only one going to Colombia. But in the midsts of all that serious training, cupping, practice routines and pouring capps I forgot the most important part of barista competition.

After watching and analysing Mike Phillips’ performance a few times in a row at 1 am and planning all the small details I thought I was ready. I sort of was, just nervous as hell and afraid of forgetting my speaks. I had digged all the information about the coffee I could find and thought that knowledge and “understanding” would award me good scores. After the last practice routine the night before I was full of self-confidence – so full that I forgot to think about the taste.

As probably everyone knows three most important things in coffee are taste, taste and taste. I think that nothing else matters if the taste isn’t right yet I arrogantly believed the opposite. I only pulled one shot during the prep time although it was unfamiliar machine1. Obviously the espresso didn’t pour as nicely as it could have as I had adjusted the dose too big. It would have been very easy to lower it a bit but for some reason I didn’t. Big mistake no 1.

It doesn’t matter how convincingly I’m telling all the fine taste descriptions to the judges if they can’t find those in the coffee – and nor did I. I arrogantly believed I could do the same as the WBC finalists, telling all the fine notes one can find in the coffee. The difference is that they have the basics covered before that and I don’t. Mistake no 2. As you can guess, I didn’t get very good points from my espressos.

Arrogance is something I can’t tolarate yet I can way too often be blamed at it.

I took the semifinals too seriously and as a result of that my performance didn’t look good. The passion I originally wanted to bring out didn’t really show out. I showed the judges that I knew something about the coffee but knowledge and especially love did not end up in the cup.

Luckily I managed to gather enought points to make it to the finals. If some other baristas would have achieved their potential routines I wouldn’t be there. I’m going to change my routine thoroughly and take a little bit different approach to the competition. Instead of just aiming for winning I’m going to take a more relaxed approach and serve some pretty damn good coffee (without saying it has “date sweetness” that it does not have…).

  1. I had adjusted my grinder just before with another machine []
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A quick catch-up

Training for the barista competition can be very time-consuming, frustrating and exhausting. Nevertheless, I’ve learned a lot and am starting to understand the idea behind the competition. More about that later.

Last week I went on a coffee trip to southern Sweden and Denmark with this guy. It is interesting how much you can learn just by visiting other roasteries and cafes and talking with the people. Stay tuned for more.

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Learning from scoresheets

Last night I found myself printing a pile of various WBC scoresheets with some scribbles on them. Doesn’t sound very interesting first, does it? Nonetheless, reading these WBC finals scoresheets from amazing baristas including Colin Harmon (he deserves all the respect for releasing his sheets first), Michael Phillips, James Hoffman and Gwilym Davies has already made me to think again my approach to the whole competition and its scoring.

Just watching the routines, live or not, is actually quite bizarre. Watching delicious, some world’s best coffee being made in front of your eyes and you don’t get to taste any of it. You can’t say too much about judges impressions either.1 But examining the scoresheets from the competitors kind of gives you a glimpe of how that coffee might have tasted and more importantly, why did that competitor get x amount of points for his performance. By studying the routines and scoresheets not just the competitors themselves but also other people could do better in their next competition.

There was an excellent comment by Alex Bernson in James Hoffman’s post. He points out that the judge has most likely assumed that the scoresheet would be shared with other judges as well as with the competitor and his training team, not the whole Internet barista community. A lot of writing on the scoresheets I’ve been reading is judge’s own notes, some is obviously meant for the competitor as feedback. Most of it doens’t make any sense for someone who hasn’t really tasted the coffee. Alex suggests that the problem might be solved if the judges writing the scoresheets knew they might and hopefully would go into the public. Hopefully this would improve the feedback given to the barista, increase scoresheets’ value to the coffee community as well as decrease the amount of incompetent judges.2

As the secretary of the Finnish chapter of SCAE, I am involved in the forthcoming barista competition. Today I got an idea of making all the scoresheets of the six finalists public and posting them on the national body’s website after competition. Not only would it improve the level of judging, hopefully making it fair and transparent for everyone, but it also might attract more baristas for next year’s competition. Showing the new kids what they are expected of, where do they lose or get points and make them realise that the top baristas don’t get all “fives” or “sixes” (something I didn’t before cheking out these sheets. This, of course, depends heavily on the Head Judge and the criteria and varies from competition to another). Getting new baristas to compete just might be the best way to improve the quality and presence of speciality coffee both in Finland and worldwide.

I really would like to hear any feedback, comments, views regarding this subject. There has been some rumour going on about last year’s competition and its transparency. There’s no need for speculations anymore, I would just like to make sure there’s no room for such rumours this year.

  1. As they are prohibited to show any reactions []
  2. Maybe it would improve the hand writing, too… []
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A Yoda wanted

Some people have the ability to help and make other people achieve their goals – whether it’s winning the Olympics or succeceeding in an exam. These people are often dubbed as coaches, trainers or leaders but basically, whatever the title, they help others to do better than they would’ve done on their own. Coaches can be motivative or ruthless but still their goal is to make sure their their trainee achieves his or her goals. You think Luke would’ve beaten that guy in black without his master Yoda?

I’ve been into coffee for about two years now and it was on the Valentine’s Day two years ago when I decided, while watching the Finnish Barista Championship finals, that one day I’m going to have of those golden portafilters on my mantelpiece. Now that the competition season arrives I find myself somewhat puzzled. My head is bursting with ideas, one night when I couldn’t sleep I MindMapped my competition espresso to-be and even tasted it in a dream a few days ago (no kidding, I really did. It was made by Tim Wendelboe at his new coffee shop in Helsinki it tasted exactly the way I want my competition blend to taste like.)

Yet I find myself confronted by the plethora of things to consider of when preparing for the competition. As a first-timer I really have no idea what it feels like being on the stage. I’ve watched numerous competition routines trying to absorb everything I could from small details to the overall theme. Still, I feel that’s not enough. Just by watching others and trying to zigzag your own routine together based on everyone else’s ones isn’t the way to win the WBC. It’s a bit like trying to learn Chinese just by listening to people speaking it. After a while you can pick something here and there but trying to apply it to your own spoken language might be a little difficult. Eventually you might succeed conversating somewhat fluently – performing a routine based on your as well as other’s ideas1 – but imagine what would the result be had you had your personal instructor. Instead of applying other’s approach to those complicated pinyin characters (they way to remember the meaning of each character) – other’s approach to coffee in this case – you could, with the help of your instructor, make your very own meanings for the characters (for example the sign meaning “road” is an “A” with a turtle above it) thus making it a lot easier and more natural to conversate – or compete succesfully.2

I really ought to get a personal Yoda. Someone who could help me to sort my thoughts, get the best out of me, make me achieve something I couldn’t on my own. Someone who would ask me to make 50 cappuccinos in order to perfect the foam, motivate me when it’s raining out- and inside. Answer my endless questions with more questions thus making me to figure out the problem myself. I’m willing to train 16 hours a day if someone’s willing to teach me. I don’t need compassion nor anything special, just a trainer who knows how to make me achieve my goal – get a ticket to Colombia.

A Yoda wanted. Please apply or report a possible candidate here.

  1. I am not saying you should not be inspired by other’s ideas, just that they should only enrich your own ones []
  2. I don’t know if this makes any sense but I hope you get my point! []
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Customer as a judge

Morning shifts at a coffee bar are great. It’s still quiet, everything is cleaned up and ready for the next morning. The machine is still shining and there’s no need to prepare food whatsoever. Pretty much the only thing left to do is calibrating the espresso grinders and possibly filter one, too.

The best thing with mornings though is tasting the coffee. The first shot or sip is often, almost always, the most enjoyable of the day. It could be because of the clean palate but more likely, as David Schomer puts it, “coffee tastes best when your body really needs it”. To put it simply, I enjoy it – even if the parametres aren’t quite right yet and the coffee could be better.

So there’s nothing new about the first coffee of the day being the most enjoyable. Later on the day when I’ve found the right settings and got the coffee just as it should be I usually can’t enjoy it like in the morning. I’m looking for anything wrong – astringency, bitterness, nothing positive that is. If I’m unfamiliar with the coffee I try to get a bigger picture of it behind the prevailing “notes”, try to image how could it still be better. Nonetheless, I’m all but enjoying the coffee the way I do in the mornings.

Now what I’m interested in is how does the customer taste the coffee. It’s a little difficult to really get hold on what I’m after here (even for myself), but basically I’d like to know whether Mr. X enjoys the coffee the same way I do in the mornings or is he going to taste or experience it differently.

I’m little puzzled with this one really. In my opinion barista’s duty is to create not just a delicious cup of coffee but new experiences for the customer, make him feel and understand the passion and love so many people have put into that cup of black liquid. Just like an outstanding dinner at a fine dining establishment, espresso at coffee bar should be a comprehensive sensory and emotional experience – and that’s baristas job to make it happen.

In order to create the best possible coffee experience for the customer I feel like I need to know exactly how they taste and feel it. I always try to ask how did the coffee taste and often customers answer that “it was good”. Of course, I don’t expect every single person to thoroughly analyse the coffee but how can I really become a better barista if I can’t understand the way customers taste and experience what I’m preparing for them?

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When I went to Stockholm

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A New Tone

Sävy-bike for shopping milk as well as transporting their kids.

This is what you get when a couple who happen to be coffee enthusiasts set up a cafe – or actually a coffee bar, as they’d like to call it. Luckily, there’s a reason for it – the coffee. Unlike in so many cafes in Helsinki, coffee is not what it’s all about. Here it is and I deeply hope that they’ll keep it that way. That’s because the coffee is often pretty damn tasty.

Kaisa (left) and Mikko, the couple behind Sävy.

First place in Helsinki to use and retail coffee from Turun Kahvipaahtimo, a micro-roastery in Turku, Sävy (“tone” or “shade” in English) is a fresh breeze in Helsinki’s coffee scene – the first real coffee place to use other than Kaffa‘s coffee. They will also be having guest espressos from other roasteries, something I’m really looking forward to.

Probably the best thing about Sävy is that it’s about 5 mins from my new flat, just by the metro station so it’s the perfect spot for a morning cappuccino or afternoon brew. At the moment their house brewed coffee is Finca La Fany from El Salvador, absolutely lovely coffee. It has to be the best Fetco-brewed coffee I’ve drunk, it just somehow seems to work very well even from thermos (the brew new batch every hour). Aeropress, Abid, Syphon and V60 are also in use, just ask for something exciting.

I love their principles – no fat-free milk, no espresso or single capp take-away. Their minimalistic menu is also great, not too many options for the customer to choose from. All the teas are loose leaf and brewed with attention (but I have to admit – I’ve opted for coffee) and there’s also some pastries and pralines to accompany the coffee.

All in all Sävy is exactly what I’ve been waiting for in Helsinki. Great coffee and lovely fellow coffee enthusiasts. Sävy is one of the first places to appear on my Helsinki Coffee Map. Hope to see you there, I’ll be around pretty often.

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Synesso Hydra, part 2

At last! The big and heavy package from Seattle we had been waiting for so long.

First of all, the Hydra is one pretty damn cool espresso machine. It’s great to work with and it looks great. Besides that here’s a few very subjective and unscientific observations and thoughts after a few weeks:

- The espresso tastes very different – mostly in a good way. Generally speaking I find it sweeter and more balanced than before, most likely because of more stable brewing temperatures and perhaps the pre-infusion.

First glimpse of the beauty

- I’ve realised (once again) that I know and understand very little about espresso and machines. With our old Linea you had only one parametre – brewing time. Switch it on and off, that’s all. With the Synesso you have brewing temperature, pressure, brewing and pre-infusion times. For each group head. It’s very interesting to try different parametres for the same coffee but at the same time it can also be quite frustrating and difficult to find the right ones and just to change one at a time.

- Temperature plays a huge role when it comes to pulling espressos. This came as no surprise to me but brewing three otherwise similar espresso with different temperatures was eye-opening experience. Even a small change in the temperature affects the coffee a lot.

- The effect of pre-infusion time is a bit of mystery to me. I’ve always, for some reason, thought that espresso should taste sweeter when it’s pre-infused longer. It would make sense if all the coffee gets satureted and extracts more evenly.1 Longer pre-infusion, say over 5 seconds, seems to make the puck sludgier than a sub-five. At the moment I don’t know whether this is a good or bad thing but I’m going to do some “wannabe-research”. I’d love to hear any comments, thoughts or facts regarding this topic.

Synesso camouflaged

- There seems to be more channeling than before. I don’t know if it’s because of the machine that’s quite different than the previous, my skills (the most likely option) or duration of pre-infusion. Okay, I haven’t played around with naked portafilters too much before so it’s a bit difficult to say whether that kind of channeling has occured before (pinholes and obvious channels). What I’ve understood earlier is it that the longer pre-infusion the less channeling there should be. This just doesn’t seem to work, at least not often enough. I’ve started grooming the coffee again instead of just tamping it straight away but it still occurs. I’m quite puzzled with this one really. Has anyone else had similar problems?

- Dosing seems to be more important. It seems that a small difference in doses, say 18,5 gr and 19,0 gr, has a larger impact in the taste than with the Linea. Again, it’s impossible to say anything more as I haven’t worked nor experimented that much with the machine yet.

Though I had been drinking mostly filter coffee for some time now my interest in espresso reappeared with the arrival of Hydra. It inspires me and makes me want to learn more about it and espresso in general. I actually feel a little smug to be able to work and play with such terrific machine and three similar Anfim grinders.

Synesso installed

With the old Linea you could brew beautiful espresso. At least for me it was difficult and a bit of gamble but it was possible. Great espresso brewed with Synesso isn’t necessarily more delicious but it certainly is easier and more consistent to brew. I love Hydra’s sleek and functional design – no flashing lights, no LED-displays, easily adjustable brewing temperatures and the steaming wands. It’s not an easy machine. Hydra demands quite a lot from the barista in order to use its full potential (eg. different temperature and pressure setups for different coffees). For the time being I am just learning the basics of the machine, that is how to pull tasty (but perhaps not mind-blowing) espresso consistently. All in all, Hydra is a tool – the espresso is only as good as the barista himself.

  1. I’m really bad with all this more scientific stuff, I really should try learn some []
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